I can spin them by hand and they will go for several revolutions before stopping. With the car jacked up, the wheels both seem to turn freely. I have to back off the adjusters to the point where I have almost no brakes before they will not drag. Backed them off again SIGNIFICANTLY, and I mean several turns. I thought, "No big deal, I just adjusted them too tight" so I backed off both several notches. After pulling over, I can smell burning brakes from both front wheels. As soon as you hit about 55MPH and maintain it for about 15 seconds, I can start to notice a vibration in the steering wheel and eventually the whole car. You have to go about 55MPH or more to notice it. So I'm actually STILL having problems with my brakes. If anyone could shed light on the problem I've described, I would be eternally grateful. But I am really running out of patience with them. It certainly would be great to keep the stock drum brakes if they could be made to work properly, for the sake of saving money, effort, and keeping the car original. Just for experimentation, I extended it out a bit and it didn't make much of a difference, other than to cause my brakes to drag, so I put it back to spec. I've also checked the pushrod adjustment and it was properly set to 1". Just for the sake of experimentation, I adjusted all 4 brakes to the point where all 4 wheels were dragging a little bit and still the brake pressure was low. Perhaps my brand new master cylinder is faulty? I bought it from Dearborn classics, so I assumed that it would be a quality unit. The only things I haven't replaced are the steel brake lines, which seem to be in fine condition (rust inside the lines maybe?) and the wheel cylinders, which are only a few years old. There are no leaks in the system, the level in the master cylinder is always full and doesn't ever require replenishing. Didn't see any air bubbles in the system when bleeding. I've bled the living bejesus out of all 4 of the brakes many times, the fluid is all new Heavy duty exceeding DOT3-DOT4 specs. All work has been done by the book straight from the original Ford Shop Manual. Everything is stock OEM style replacement. Like I said, I have a brand new master cylinder, all new rubber brake lines, shoes, drums, hardware, and self-adjusters. It also worries me that if I were to have any brake fade, there will be no reserve in the pedal to make up for it. It just bugs me knowing there is something wrong, and having to push the pedal to the floor to keep the car stopped when in drive at a stoplight. There is not usually any pull to either side when braking, so it seems like the shoes are in adjustment and the wheel cylinders are working evenly. When you do press the brake pedal to the floor, I can get the brakes to lock up and stop the car very quickly, so the car is safe for driving. There is quite a bit of free play in the pedal before the brakes engage. Hand tools and the job can be completed within a day`s work, just in time for your next cruise-in or show.Click to expand.The brakes work, but the brake pedal has to be pushed nearly to the floor to get the brakes to work at all. In case of a wheel cylinder or line failure, you will still have brake power to get you safely to the side of the road. Tandem master cylinders contain twin reservoirs. Most applications including a tandem master cylinder, which is a safety conscious addition. Kanter`s complete kit gives you peace of mind with We offer two styles of kits for most vehicles an "At The Wheels Kit" or a "Complete Kit". We carry a large array of kits rangingįrom Buick to Cadillac and Dodge to Studebaker from 1928-1984. Our kits provide you with 21st Century stopping power for your collector car, but still allow you to keep your stock wheel appearance. Stop your collector car with confidence when you buy a Kanter Auto Product`s Disc Brake Conversion Kit.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |